How to remove and re-install the rear wheel
Something soft for the floor, to rest your bike onto
Wire cutters or pliers
Either a 15mm deep socket, 15mm pedal spanner OR an adjustable spanner
First, remove the chain. The easiest way is to push the chain tensioner upwards and release the chain from the chain tensioner. You can then easily take the chain off the chain wheel, and then off the motor. Leave the chain hanging from the motor.
Next, release the back brake. To do this, find the switch on the side of the brake and pull the switch towards the outside, this will allow you to rotate the adjacent part of the brake with the screw. Rotating this part will release the rear brake.
Next, cut the small cable tie that is holding the motor cable in place. This is cable tie that is closest to the wheel axel.
Disconnect the motor cable by pulling the two parts of the motor cable (with the arrows on) apart.
Now you are ready to take off the rear wheel! To do so, you need to undo the two lock nuts on the wheel using either a 15mm deep socket, 15mm pedal spanner or an adjustable spanner if you don’t have the other options to hand. Use your chosen tool to undo the lock nuts on both sides.
Washers explained: if you take the wheel nuts off both sides, you’ll see that there are three washers on either side. These are arranged in the following order: wheel nut, followed by a spring washer (the one with the cut in), followed by a flat washer, followed by a third washer that sits on the inside on the dropouts. On the drive side (chain side), the third washer is an anti-rotation washer. This has a part that protrudes and slots into the dropouts. On the other side on the wheel, the third washer is a conical washer with a flat part that lines up with the flat part on the axel.
Lift the bike slightly and wiggle the rear wheel downwards until you have removed it. With the chain resting on the rear brake, gently put the bike back on the ground.
First, remove the chain. Locate the quick link on the chain – the quick link looks slightly different to the other links, you’ll notice that it doesn’t have the same shape as the other links on one side. This side (the one with the different shape) of the quicklink needs to be on the outside.
To make putting the chain back on easier, you should have two small loops at the bottom – as shown in the video (this helps you put the chain back onto the jockey wheels – which are labelled 03, 04, 05 in the diagram. Once the chain is set up right, place it back onto the third jockey wheel (#05 in the diagram below).
Now you are ready to put the wheel back on. To do so, first make sure that the motor cable is pointing downwards, and is on the opposite side of the bike to the chain. Lift the bike slightly off the ground and bring the wheel into place, lining it up with the slots in the dropouts. Make sure that the washers on both sides are on the inside of the dropouts.
Before dropping the wheel fully into place, make sure that the protruding part on the chain-side washer is well aligned with the slot in the dropout. Then, drop the wheel into position.
Next, it’s time to put the washers back both sides on in the following order: first the flat washer, then the spring washer (the one with a cut in it), and finally the wheel nut. Tighten the wheel nut with your fingers.
If you have a kickstand: on the non-drive (opposite to chain) side, your kickstand takes the place of the flat and spring washers, so you’ll just need the wheel nut.
Once you have put on both wheel nuts, tighten them further with a 15mm deep socket, 15mm pedal spanner or an adjustable spanner if you don’t have the other options to hand. Tighten up to about 20 N m (if you have a torque wrench), or as far as you can with a spanner.
Now you can put the chain back on. Wrap it around the motor sprocket first (#01 in the diagram above – the chain should already be hanging from the third jockey wheel #05), then around the chain wheel (#02), then over the chain tensioner jockey wheel (#03). Then, pull the chain tensioner back towards the motor, and place the chain underneath the final jockey wheel (#04). The chain should be in a ‘W’ shape as shown in the diagram.
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